12.1 Demon Roof Boulder

Start matched on the flat ledge on the very far left side of Demon Roof. Move right along this feature to eventually gain a crimp at its right edge and a higher side pull up and left. Make powerful moves to the lip before turning this (harder than it looks and the crux of the line) and then continuing up the easy slab above. One of the best lines in the forest.

Start with a good jug above the lip (the tall can reach, the short can jump). Move left along the lip using whatever you can find to eventually reach the groove on The Exorcist, from where you finish as for that line via the same committing moves through the lip and up the easy slab above. Hard for the grade.

Start with a good ledge just above the lip (the tall can reach, the short need to jump). Make difficult moves to get established on the slab directly above the start and then climb this directly to the top.

Start matched on a side pull / pinch jug on the left side of the large block on the mid part of the roof. Make powerful moves directly up through the roof to gain a series of small crimps that lead leftwards to a big pull to a higher hold. Use this to get established on the slab proper and then trend right to join, and finish up, the upper slab of Demon Roof.

Start matched on a side pull / pinch jug on the left side of the large block on the mid part of the roof. Make powerful moves up and right to climb through the roof before continuing directly up the slab above, crossing over the positive crack line rather than following it. The full tick requires a top out, although those lacking the moral servitude to achieve this can always turn around and climb down the tree once stood above the lip (and then walk away with their head hung in shame).

Start matched on the juggy break just left of the tree. Make powerful moves up and left to breach the lip. Once established above the lip, step further left to gain the base of the diagonal crack, which is followed up and across the high slab above. Again, there is an option to downclimb the tree behind you once established standing above the lip, but where’s the fun in that.

Start on a jug just right of the tree. Make powerful and tricky moves up the small ledges right of the tree (being careful not to dab the tree itself, difficult for the tall) before continuing up the slab above using small incut crimps and footholds, trending right to the ledge and an easy top out. No wussing out permitted for a tick of this one i’m afraid…

A stunning lip line along the bottom face of the bloc. Starting from matched on the jug directly beneath the left end of the lip, pull up to the lip itself and follow this all the way right to several positive holds near its right end (at about 4.5 m height). Once on these, make extremely committing moves up onto the slab above and finish up this.

A lip line traverse starting from the jug at the beginning of Inferno and eventually finishing up The Conjuring. A mix of moderate climbing to link up the various problems described above, a bunch of hard bits on some of those problems, and an even harder bit linking up Divine Comedy and The Conjuring. One for the hard sport climbers out there as this link is looooooooong.

Another great problem, this time up the arete and wall to the right of Inferno. Start from a high crimp on the arete with the left and an undercut on the overlap with the right. Powerfully pull on to the steep wall before committing to a series of dynamic slaps up spaced holds to the right of the arête to eventually gain good holds in the break and an easier top out.

A hard sit start linking to the above line. All moves have been done but linking them has been a bit elusive to date. Expected to be about V9.