12.3 Motherlode Boulder

Sit start on the right arête of the small bloc at the left end of the face. Work your way up the arête to the lip before making a big span to the base of the hanging groove. Continue out along the lip to the right of this before rocking back into the groove to finish.

The direct start to the above line will be extremely hard, especially if the block to the left is eliminated for feet too.

The line up the overhanging prow seems feasible but will be very very hard. Start matched on positive holds in the break and work up and right to a distant, but positive, crimp high and right (hopefully this won't just snap off). From this another long move should just about bring the lip of the bloc.

As for the above line but with an extremely hard sit start to get to the good holds in the break.

Start with a chest high side pull for the left and a small high crimp for the right (shorties will need to stack a pad or two to reach this). Make powerful moves to the ledge above and then commit to the wall above this, eventually gaining the obvious jug on the ledge high up. Finish with committing, but easier moves above this.

Start with the broken side pull for the right and a tiny high triangle crimp for the left (shorties will need to stack a pad or two to reach this). Make powerful moves to the large ledge above before making even larger moves up the various features right of the crack, plus the crack itself if you feel the need, to top out through the bulging wall/crack. Note: Both problems #2 and #3 can be started slightly lower using the broken crimp on #3 for right and a good side pull level with this for the left (Satoshi's Start), then moving up to the small high crimp described above before going to the ledge. This adds a hard move and cranks up the grade a bit too.

Start with a mediocre side pull for the right and a high positive crimp for the left (stacking again needed for shorties). Climb the face above via a series of features that culminate in a committing top out through the rounded lip above.

A sit start to the above line from opposing widely spaced side pulls low down on the wall, with a tricky move to get established on the original line.

Start sat at the big ledge. Lift off using this and then move left to small crimps on the wall and powerfully work your way to slopers above, finishing up the slab left of the groove.

Follow the previous line to the slopers but this time stay right and finish up the bulging wall right of the groove. A similar level of difficulty to the left finish but much more committing.

Start in the high juggy flake and climb the wall immediately above this.

Start at the ledge. Move left to the nearby crimp and then launch directly up to the juggy flake at the start of Resident Evil. Soft at the grade for anyone with an ape index of 180 or more.

Start sat at the big ledge. Pull on and make powerful moves out right to small crimps holds. Lock these in tight and make the long reach to the start of the stand start version, which is then followed to the top. Similar to the above, also a bit morpho and easier for those with a longer wingspan.

Don't like the crimps on Resident Evil (sds) or Resident Direct (sds)? Simple, skip them and just dyno from the start hold to the flake!